My thought to this diner
Part.1
Text by Kunio TOKUOKA
Regarding a photo at the end scene of the short
movie, the plate made 400 years ago was piled highly, and
a fresh strawberry was put on the top. It is the moment that
blend of past with 400 years of history and present. The new
thing and old thing do not exist independently, it is important
to blend all the elements together. As we know from history,
when it crosses the border, distance, time, new power come into
the world. Then, it may have special power, but I want it to
be the step in the right direction.
Now, I would like to talk about the reason why I chose these
foods for you. It is palpable that the recent trend of culinary
field in the world tends to “Super Innovation.” I think it is
very important to improve and adapt to the times. However, it
is not always true if only we change something. So, I feel a
little question on the orientation of the culinary “Super Innovation.”
For this reason, I would like to give my whole mind to the review
of our traditional techniques. For example, Miso (soybean paste),
Tofu, or Yuba are made from soybeans, which have been used in
Asia since long time ago, and each food has further variations.
Besides, sesame seeds can be used as oil, spice, sauce, or sometimes
can be served as a food looks like Tofu.
With a certain technique, a material turns to so many kinds
of foods. When I think of it, I feel that every piece of the
Japanese food history that has been maintained while many foods
were weeded out can be considered as “Healthy Innovation.” What
should be added in the extension of the tradition? Firstly reviewing
the culinary history of my home country, I took my first step
toward the creation.
The important thing is “To review the roots.” That is, to know
about the materials and I think it is to get a sense of the
producer of the materials. Those producers who cultivate beautiful
and healthy food materials support our cooking. In present-day
Japan, the circumstance for genuine agriculture is not that
easy. I believe that it is the first step for the development
of cooking and is a responsibility of the chef to loudly speak
for the producers’ enthusiasm through the foods.
If we search for good ingredients for the cooking, it'll be
liable to be expensive. But I think that "Slow Food"
means those appreciators are using time and thing effectively
rather than essential poverty.
My grandfather said, “With your ingenuity, everything in nature
can be a food.”
When I think it out again and again with enthusiasm, I think
I can give an effect on the cooking and it gets through to the
other people’s mind.
In summary, my culinary philosophy is “Living Together.” Food
nurtures many things. It is not only for supplying energy to
the body but also is a media that promotes the relationship
between the people. To share the time sitting around a table
with friends, colleagues, or master and pupils who seek the
way of cooking is just to cultivate the relationship between
the people. Also, I think we should develop the relationship
between the producers, restaurants, and even the consumers as
well. I think that “Living Together” stands for the mutual development
beyond the generations. I think that either scientific solution
or creation of a new field is one of elements for “Living Together”
but is not the central thing.
Of course, a new recipe, combination, and different way of decoration
are important but I keenly feel that essential is a food, which
is for “Living Together.”
It is nice for the producers, chefs, service, and customers
to communicate through a food. If you feel that the communication
can be the vigor for the future for everybody involved with
this food, there is no chef who can hardly ask for more.
Why these foods have been taken over for a long time? I think
it is because it has been necessary for “Living Together.” What
would you think about it?
Today, I come here to introduce to all of you what we have developed
in Japan. However, now I am in Italy, not in Japan. Therefore,
it is a little regrettable because I cannot convey everything
from Japan to you. However, I made my best efforts to make you
feel, taste, and know about Japan as much as possible. I would
be glad if you understand it even if only slightly. |
